I had driven over the road from Mombasa to Malindi some twenty years earlier when Kenya was still a colony and the road had aged no better than the rest of the country’s infrastructure. The plan was to observe the eclipse from the coast near Kilifi so we made some rapid changes to departure times to allow for the unpredictable Malindi Ferry and elephant size potholes in the roads. Every detail was in place the night before the eclipse, but then our coach disappeared – it appe
